Africa, with its 54 countries and nearly 3,000 different ethnic groups, is a true cradle of cultures, know-how and history. The textile sector and its traditions are not left out. We invite you to discover a fascinating artisanal heritage through some examples of locally made fabrics still used today.
Designers and brands such as Imane Ayissi , Kente Gentlemen , Peuhl Vagabond , Elie Kuame, Pathé'O and Sébastien Bazemo have decided to bring these treasures up to date through their creations.
You will also find a series of articles and brands promoting these fabrics in the Textile category of Ledoux Store.
The controversy surrounding wax: a cultural imposture?
Wax (“wax” in French) finds its inspiration in the ancestral art of batik from Java in Indonesia, registered as an intangible heritage site by UNESCO since 2009. This textile takes its name from the process that involves using wax to draw patterns before dyeing the fabric. In the 19th century, the Dutch and the English tried to imitate this technique and industrialize it in a failed attempt to conquer the Indonesian market. At the end of the 19th century, the Dutch firm Vlisco decided to attack the African market by drawing inspiration from this same technique but this time printing colorful patterns reminiscent of African cultures. The success was immediate and propelled by the “Mama Benz” saleswomen from Togo. Today, the Dutch are competing with Chinese producers.
Despite a design process that does not involve Africans in any way, wax stands as an essential symbol of the African continent and its soft power, in the collective imagination and throughout the world. That said, the purpose of this article is not to relaunch the debate between wax and African fabrics, we will not make it a longer paragraph.
What are authentic African fabrics?
Here is a non-exhaustive list, by country/region, of textile traditions of the African continent.
Benign
The Kanvô
Kanvô, a Fon language expression meaning “woven loincloth” in French, is a cultural treasure of Benin. In northern Benin, it is also known as “Tako”. This magnificent loincloth is made by two ethnic groups: the "Baâtonu" in the North and the "Fon" in the South. Initially reserved for royal use, the Kanvô is made by talented weavers from cotton, linen or hemp threads. It is said that its inspiration comes from the Nigerian loincloth "Asho oke", brought back to Abomey in the 18th century by King Agonglo after a conquest in the Yoruba country in Nigeria. The latter, impressed by the art of a Nigerian weaver, promoted it in his territory. His son, King Guézo, continues to develop this craft and helps popularize the woven loincloth. Today, the Beninese government instituted the "Kanvô Label" in 2017 to promote Beninese woven cotton, with the support of the Minister responsible for trade and crafts, Lazare Sehoueto.
Discover Ledoux Collections' vegetable suede hats. It comes with 3 interchangeable belts in kanvô woven in Benin.
Photo credit: ledoux.store
Copyright © 2023 Ledoux Store. All rights reserved.
Burkina Faso
Burkina Faso is one of the four major cotton producers in Africa, along with Mali, Chad and Benin, also known as the "Cotton Fours".
Faso Dan Fani
Originating from Burkina Faso, the Faso Dan Fani is a woven loincloth that became an emblem of local know-how and national pride thanks to Thomas Sankara in the 1980s. The term "Faso Dan Fani" in Dioula translates to "woven loincloth of the homeland" in French. On March 8, 1987, on International Women's Day, Thomas Sankara gave a memorable speech encouraging the emancipation of women through work and the promotion of local fabrics, particularly the Faso Dan Fani. He issued a decree requiring civil servants to wear this symbolic fabric. This is how the Faso Dan Fani was born, literally becoming the symbol of Burkinabé patriotism. In 2018, Burkina Faso began the process of labeling the Faso Dan Fani brand to preserve this precious heritage in "The country of upright men".
The Koko Dunda
Originating from Burkina Faso, Koko Dunda, from the Kôkô region of Bobo Dioulasso, was once associated with poverty and stigma. Its name in Dioula means “My husband doesn’t work.” However, thanks to fashion designer Sébastien Bazemo, this multi-colored striped fabric made a remarkable comeback in 2016. The complex artisanal process involves folding and tying the fabric with nylon thread before dipping it in dye baths, creating different shades. In 2021, Koko Dunda was officially labeled, becoming the fourth Burkinabé product to receive this distinction. This recognition aims to strengthen its competitiveness, fight against counterfeiting, generate jobs and reduce poverty, in particular through the support of the Ministry of Industry, Trade and Handicrafts. More than 236 Koko Dunda patterns are now protected thanks to this label.
Discover Koko Dunda at Ledoux Store. Did you know? There is a version of our Boubou Audrey designed with Koko Dunda entirely dyed in Burkina Faso.
Cameroon
The Ndop
Ndop, originating from the North-West of Cameroon, is a traditional and ritual cloth rich in symbolism for the Bamiléké and Bamoun people of Cameroon. Made from strips of cotton sewn together and dyed with geometric patterns and representations of animals woven into raffia, ndop represents a cultural treasure rich in history and tradition in Cameroon. The making of Ndop involves natural dyes such as indigo. Historically, it was used as a form of currency and was reserved for royal costumes and the clothing of notables. The patterns encoded on Ndop were understood only by initiates.
The Toghu
Toghu (or Atoghu), a traditional fabric originating from the Bamenda region of Cameroon, is renowned for its robustness. It is a black velvet fabric and is resistant to wear and tear. It is worn by royalty and notables and as a long tunic during festivities by the Bamiléké of the Grassland region. The multicoloured hand embroidery, adorned with patterns and decorations, makes Toghu a central symbol of Cameroon's clothing and cultural heritage.
Photo credit: Wikipedia
Copyright © 2019 Wikipedia. All rights reserved.
Ivory Coast
The Khorogo
The traditional tapestry of the city of Korhogo, marked by the colors black, brown and ochre, represents animals and ritual scenes of the Senoufo ethnic group. The patterns are schematic and flat, highlighting the essential features without going into detail. The Korhogo canvas is also known as “filafani” in Senoufo. This canvas is hand-printed with patterns on hand-spun cotton, using a natural fermented plant pigment that darkens over time, and the designs are often made using a stencil.
Ethiopia
The Shema
Shema is the oldest cotton textile in Ethiopian industry, a traditional hand-spun cloth woven on traditional looms. Although the cotton industry in Ethiopia is becoming increasingly industrialized, many weavers still perpetuate artisanal methods. The density of Shema varies according to weaving techniques. Ethiopian artisans carefully select cotton for its manufacture, dye it according to preference, and weave it into unique pieces. These garments are traditionally hand-embroidered and are an integral part of Ethiopian culture and economy. The Shema, a type of toga shawl, is worn by both men and women, also serving as a blanket and even a shroud for the deceased.
Ghana
Kente or Kita
The Adinkra
Originating from Ghana, Adinkra has its roots in the Gyaman Kingdom in Ivory Coast. Formerly called Adingra in Ivory Coast, it is now known as Ghanaian Adinkra. The history of this textile dates back to the 19th century, when Chief Abron of the Gyaman provoked the Ashanti king by copying his royal stool. Defeated, he lost his life, and his son, held captive in the Ashanti kingdom, taught the technique of Adinkra. Unlike traditional African textiles, Adinkra uses the technique of printing on cotton canvas or bazin, with ink made from mangrove bark. Adinkra designs are printed using stamps cut from a calabash. Although the British introduced industrialized Adinkra prints, this traditional technique remains an ancient and complex graphic language, preserved by artists and elders.
Guinea Conakry
The Lepi
Originating from Guinea, the Lépi, often called the “indigo loincloth,” is an important cultural emblem of the country, particularly for the Peul ethnic group. It is a unique loincloth, made in a single shade: indigo. This fabric is lightweight and all-natural, made from wood bark and vegetable plants. Worn at weddings, ceremonies, and special occasions, the Lépi is characterized by its distinctive striped patterns. Although Guinea is the main producer of Lépi, it can also be found in other countries such as Mali, Burkina Faso, Niger, and Togo.
The Sacred Forest
The “Sacred Forest” dyeing technique comes from the Forest Guinea, it involves decoctions of bark and kola nuts, giving a brown background color. The initial shade of the fabric is then followed by black patterns applied using stamps. Traditionally, dignitaries passing through Forest Guinea are honored with a boubou or loincloth made with this distinct technique.
Photo credit: e toffessoleil.blogspot.com
Copyright © 2012 Les Etoffes du Soleil. All rights reserved.
Guinea Bissau
The Majank loincloth
The Majank loincloth, worn by the Manjak ethnic group present in Guinea Bissau, Senegal, Gambia, Ethiopia and Cape Verde, is a cotton fabric made manually using a loom. Also known as "Bléénj" or "sëru njaago" in Senegal, its manufacture is reserved for men. The patterns of the Manjak loincloth are full of meaning, telling the history, rites and values of the Manjak people. Used during all major events in life, from baptism to death, this luxurious fabric made of cotton or silk threads has a long tradition.
Kenya
The Shuka
The Shuka, often red with black stripes, is affectionately called the “African blanket” and is characteristic of the Maasai people in East Africa. In addition to red, they use blue, striped and checked Shukas. This prestigious fabric is known for its durability, strength and thickness, providing protection against the elements and conditions of the savannah.
Mali
The Bogolan
Nigeria
The Asho oke
Asho oke is a hand-woven fabric mainly by the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria. It is also sometimes called "Aso-Ofi", where "Ofi" refers to the seat on which the weavers sit when weaving the fabric. The woven strips are usually sewn together to make traditional clothing worn on special occasions such as festivals, weddings, and coronations. The main producing areas of Aso Oke are Iseyin (Oyo State), Ede (Osun State), and Okene (Kogi State) in southern Nigeria. There are several types of Aso Oke, such as Etu (deep blue with thin light blue stripes), Sanyan (woven from locally obtained beige silk), and Alari (woven from magenta silk).
Discover the Asho Oke in the Boubou Audrey from Ledoux Collections.
The Akwete
Akwete cloth, made in Nigeria, is a traditional Igbo hand-woven textile. It is produced in the Igboland region, particularly in the town of Akwete, also known as Ndoki, in Abia State. This unique textile is created from cotton threads, raffia and other fibres. A unique feature of Akwete is that it is traditionally made by women. It was originally called “Akwa Miri” (“water garment” in English). Akwete cloths have many patterns, and although Akwete weavers are familiar with over a hundred different patterns, only three or four are usually used at one time on a single piece of cloth. Interestingly, the creation of a new pattern gives its creator an unwritten copyright, thus highlighting the inspirational aspect of pattern development in this society.
Credit: Wikipedia
Copyright © 2023 Wikipedia. All rights reserved.
The Adire
Adire cloth, native to Nigeria and specific to the Yoruba people of the southwest of the country, is a traditional fabric with rich indigo hues. The Yoruba adapted the dyeing and ornamentation methods of imported English fabrics to create Adire. They used tie-dyeing and raffia yarn techniques to produce durable patterns, resulting in this distinctive fabric. In the early 20th century, Adire spread widely across West Africa, reaching countries such as Ghana, Senegal and Congo. However, the rise of Adire was hampered by European restrictions on the export of textiles to West Africa in the late 1930s. Despite this, Adire continues to be produced using traditional techniques involving specialist dyers and artisans creating unique patterns from resin. Methods include Adire Oniko, Adire Eleko, Adire Alabere and Adire Batani, each technique offering distinct and dazzling patterns.
Democratic Republic of Congo
Kuba Raffia
Kuba raffia, originally from the Democratic Republic of Congo, is an iconic fabric that has been designed and hand-crafted by the Kubas for centuries. It is woven on a 45-degree loom, requiring skill and physical endurance. Two main types of Kuba fabric are produced, all using raffia: the cut-pile fabric called Shoowa and the strip-woven fabric used as clothing. Men grow, cut, pick and dye the fibers, using indigo, mud and red substances. Pregnant women then weave and embroider, requiring hours or even years of work for the most elaborate pieces. These fabrics have great symbolic value, with specific patterns and colors related to the occasions on which they are worn. Several variations of these Kuba raffia fabrics exist, each with their own characteristics and techniques.
Senegal
The Rabal
Rabal is a traditional fabric dear to the Manjacks of Senegal and Guinea-Bissau. Called "serou rabal" in Wolof, it is widely known among Senegalese women. This fabric is worn in different ways depending on age and region, with specific colors and patterns, each carrying its own meaning.
Credit: Ka Wax Home
Copyright © 2023 Ka Wax Home. All rights reserved.
Chad
The Godong (or Gabak)
The Godong, also called Gabak in Arabic, is a woven loincloth of Chadian origin. It is a carefully crafted cotton strip, recognized for its quality. Before the colonial period, the Fulani of Chad used it as a means of exchange for essential products.
African textiles on Ledoux Store
Discover a series of articles and brands that promote the traditions of the textile sector in Africa. See our Textile category.